Knitted threads of silence: Anatolian stockings as techno-aesthetic tacit media
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In mainstream histories of technology, the connection between textiles and information technology has typically been reduced to the influence of Joseph Marie Jacquard’s weaving loom on Charles Babbage and Ada Lovelace’s early conception of computing in the 19th century. However, narratives of textile practices encoding information – real or imagined – exist beyond weaving and the Western context, suggesting a more fundamental relationship between fiber-based manufacturing and data inscription.
This article examines the hand-knitted stockings of Anatolia, used by illiterate and oppressed women to inscribe messages through visual symbols. Besides depicting natural phenomena such as regional plants, animals, and everyday objects, Anatolian women used these symbols to express social and family affiliations and their repressed feelings, desires and opinions. This created a medium for an indirect, tacit form of expression that helped them navigate strict social rules. The research delves into the historical and cultural contexts of these understudied textiles, drawing on scarce written sources to situate the knitted stockings in the broader context of textile encoding, gender and power. The findings aim to provoke further interdisciplinary interest in textile-based inscription techniques, enriching the historiography of media and computational technologies.
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(c) Ebru Kurbak, 2024
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Ebru Kurbak, University of Applied Arts Vienna
Ebru Kurbak is an artist and researcher born in Izmir, Turkey, and based in Vienna, Austria. Her practice explores the entanglements between art, technology, culture, and politics, with a focus on uncovering hidden values and ideologies in science and technology research. Ebru is currently a senior research fellow at the University of Applied Arts Vienna and runs the arts-based research project titled The Museum of Lost Technology (2020-2024) funded by the Austrian Science Fund (FWF) [10.55776/V795]. She previously was PI of the arts-based research project titled Stitching Worlds (2014-2018) and a visiting professor at the University of Applied Arts Vienna (2020–2022). She also taught at the Departments of Visual Communication Design and Photography and Video at the Istanbul Bilgi University (2003-2006) and the Department of Space and Design Strategies at the University of Art and Design Linz (2006-2014). Ebru carried out artistic residencies at La Gaîté Lyrique (FR), V2_Institute for Unstable Media (NL), LABoral Cultural Center (SP), and EYEBEAM (US), and has exhibited at international platforms including the MAK – Museum of Applied Arts Vienna (AT), Ars Electronica Festival (AT), ZKM (DE), SIGGRAPH Conferences (US), Microwave Festival (Hong Kong), Istanbul Design Biennial (TR) and Piksel Festival (NO), among others. Ebru was awarded the LACMA Art + Technology Grant by the Los Angeles County Museum of Arts in 2019. Her work entitled Reinventing the Spindle received the Art Gallery Best in Show Award at Siggraph 2023.
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