Knitted threads of silence: Anatolian stockings as techno-aesthetic tacit media
Article Sidebar
Google Scholar citations
Main Article Content
In mainstream histories of technology, the connection between textiles and information technology has typically been reduced to the influence of Joseph Marie Jacquard’s weaving loom on Charles Babbage and Ada Lovelace’s early conception of computing in the 19th century. However, narratives of textile practices encoding information – real or imagined – exist beyond weaving and the Western context, suggesting a more fundamental relationship between fiber-based manufacturing and data inscription.
This article examines the hand-knitted stockings of Anatolia, used by illiterate and oppressed women to inscribe messages through visual symbols. Besides depicting natural phenomena such as regional plants, animals, and everyday objects, Anatolian women used these symbols to express social and family affiliations and their repressed feelings, desires and opinions. This created a medium for an indirect, tacit form of expression that helped them navigate strict social rules. The research delves into the historical and cultural contexts of these understudied textiles, drawing on scarce written sources to situate the knitted stockings in the broader context of textile encoding, gender and power. The findings aim to provoke further interdisciplinary interest in textile-based inscription techniques, enriching the historiography of media and computational technologies.
Article Details
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
(c) Ebru Kurbak, 2024
Copyright
For all articles published in Artnodes that are subject to a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International licence, copyright is retained by the author(s). The complete text the license can be consulted at http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/. You may copy, distribute, transmit and adapt the work, provided you attribute it (authorship, journal name, publisher) in the manner specified by the author(s) or licensor(s).
Authors are responsible for obtaining the necessary licences for the images that are subject to copyright.
Assignment of intellectual property rights
The author non exclusively transfers the rights to use (reproduce, distribute, publicly broadcast or transform) and market the work, in full or part, to the journal’s editors in all present and future formats and modalities, in all languages, for the lifetime of the work and worldwide.
I hereby declare that I am the original author of the work. The editors shall thus not be held responsible for any obligation or legal action that may derive from the work submitted in terms of violation of third parties’ rights, whether intellectual property, trade secret or any other right.
Ebru Kurbak, University of Applied Arts Vienna
Ebru Kurbak is an artist and researcher born in Izmir, Turkey, and based in Vienna, Austria. Her practice explores the entanglements between art, technology, culture, and politics, with a focus on uncovering hidden values and ideologies in science and technology research. Ebru is currently a senior research fellow at the University of Applied Arts Vienna and runs the arts-based research project titled The Museum of Lost Technology (2020-2024) funded by the Austrian Science Fund (FWF) [10.55776/V795]. She previously was PI of the arts-based research project titled Stitching Worlds (2014-2018) and a visiting professor at the University of Applied Arts Vienna (2020–2022). She also taught at the Departments of Visual Communication Design and Photography and Video at the Istanbul Bilgi University (2003-2006) and the Department of Space and Design Strategies at the University of Art and Design Linz (2006-2014). Ebru carried out artistic residencies at La Gaîté Lyrique (FR), V2_Institute for Unstable Media (NL), LABoral Cultural Center (SP), and EYEBEAM (US), and has exhibited at international platforms including the MAK – Museum of Applied Arts Vienna (AT), Ars Electronica Festival (AT), ZKM (DE), SIGGRAPH Conferences (US), Microwave Festival (Hong Kong), Istanbul Design Biennial (TR) and Piksel Festival (NO), among others. Ebru was awarded the LACMA Art + Technology Grant by the Los Angeles County Museum of Arts in 2019. Her work entitled Reinventing the Spindle received the Art Gallery Best in Show Award at Siggraph 2023.
Barber, Elizabeth J.W. Prehistoric Textiles: The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1992.
Barber, Elizabeth J. W. Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years; Women, Cloth, and Society in Early Times. New York, NY and London: W.W. Norton & Company, 1995. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/9780691201412
Barışta, H. Örcün. “Türk El Sanatlarından El Örgüsü Çoraplar” [Hand-Knitted Socks from Turkish Handicrafts]. Erdem, vol. 2, no. 6, (1986, September): 867-882. https://dergipark.org.tr/tr/pub/erdem/issue/44564/552992.
Barışta, H. Örcün. Turkish Handicrafts. Ankara: Ministry of Culture and Tourism, 1988.
Dickens, Charles and Richard Maxwell. A Tale of Two Cities. London: Penguin Classics, 2011.
Gelişli, Yücel. “Türkiye’de Kadın Eğitiminin Bugünkü Durumu” [The Current State of Women’s Education in Turkey]. Akademik Bakış International Journal for Social Sciences, no. 40, (2014). https://dergipark.org.tr/tr/download/article-file/382702
Gibson, James J. The Ecological Approach to Visual Perception. New York: Taylor & Francis, 1986.
Gleba, Margarita. Textile Production in Pre-Roman Italy. Oxford, UK: Oxbow Books, 2022.
Gleba, Margarita and Ulla Mannering (eds.). Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to AD 400. Ancient Textiles Series 11. Oxford, UK: Oxbow Books, 2019.
Grömer, Karina, Regina Hofmann-de Keijzer and Helga Rösel-Mautendorfer. The Art of Prehistoric Textile Making: The Development of Craft Traditions and Clothing in Central Europe. Edited by Andreas Koch. Translated by Katharina Rebay-Salisbury and Roderick B. Salisbury. Vienna: Natural History Museum Vienna, 2016. DOI: https://doi.org/10.26530/OAPEN_604250
Harlizius-Klück, Ellen. “Weaving as Binary Art and the Algebra of Patterns”. TEXTILE, vol. 15, no. 2, (2017): 176-197. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2017.1298239
Haring, Kristen. “How to Knit a Popular History of Media”. Video recording of the lecture presented in The History and Theory of New Media Lecture Series (2011, 13 October). Retrieved from http://opentranscripts.org/transcript/knit-popular-history-media/
Harrell, Betsy. Anatolian Knitting Designs: Sivas Stocking Patterns. Istanbul: Redhouse Press, 1981.
Kittler, Friedrich A. “There Is No Software.” The Truth of the Technological World: Essays on the Genealogy of Presence. (Redwood City: Stanford University Press, 2014), 219-229. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/9780804792622-016
Kuchera, Susan. “The Weavers and Their Information Webs: Steganography in the Textile Arts”. Ada: A Journal of Gender, New Media, and Technology, no. 13, (2018, May). DOI: https://doi.org/10.5399/uo/ada.2018.13.9
McCarty, Cara. Tools: Extending Our Reach. New York, NY: Cooper Hewitt Museum, 2014.
Nas, Emine. “Türk Çeyiz Geleneğinde Milli Söz Hazinesi” [The National Capital Treasury Developing as a Language of Communication in the Landscape of the Turkish Dowry Culture]. Journal of Turkish Studies, vol. 13, no. 18, (2018): 991-1005. DOI: https://doi.org/10.7827/TurkishStudies.12725
Özbel, Kenan. Knitted Stockings from Turkish Villages. Ankara: Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, 1981.
Özbel, Kenan. Türk Köylü Çorapları [Turkish Villager Stockings]. Ankara: Türkiye İş Bankası Cultural Publications, 1976.
Özbel, Kenan. El Sanatları I: Anadolu Çorapları [Handicrafts I: Anatolian Stockings]. Kılavuz Kitaplar: IX, Ankara: C.H.P. Halkevleri Bürosu, 1945.
Parikka, Jussi. What Is Media Archaeology? Cambridge, UK; Malden, MA: Polity Press, 2012.
Salomon, Frank. The Cord Keepers: Khipus and Cultural Life in a Peruvian Village. Durham: Duke University Press, 2004. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctv11hpp2t
Schneider, Birgit. Textiles Prozessieren: eine Mediengeschichte der Lochkartenweberei. Zürich and Berlin: Diaphanes, 2007.
Turney, Joanne. The Culture of Knitting. Oxford, UK: Berg, 2009.
Similar Articles
- Lev Manovich, Avant-garde as Software , Artnodes: No. 2 (2003): NODE 2. Art and New Media
- Wolfgang Ernst, Radical Media Archaeology (its epistemology, aesthetics and case studies) , Artnodes: No. 21: (June 2018). NODE 21. Media Archaeology (Editors: Pau Alsina, Ana Rodríguez, Vanina Hofman)
- Erkki Huhtamo, Beginning and Developement of Media Archaeology , Artnodes: No. 5: (September 2006). NODE 5. Interviews (Editors: Pau Alsina, Pau Waelder)
- Marina Pastor, Moises Mañas, Media-apocalypse. Dissection, regeneration, and repair: agents for the development of technocratic-ludic zombie systems , Artnodes: No. 21: (June 2018). NODE 21. Media Archaeology (Editors: Pau Alsina, Ana Rodríguez, Vanina Hofman)
- David García, Geert Lovink, Andreas Broeckmann, The GHI of Tactical Media , Artnodes: No. 2 (2003): NODE 2. Art and New Media
- Raquel Caerols Mateo, Beatriz Escribano, Medialab Madrid 2002-2006. Participatory culture and social activism in Madrid , Artnodes: No. 24: (July 2019). NODE 24. After post-truth (Editor.: Jorge Luis Marzo)
- Erkki Huhtamo, Overhead modernity: airplanes, skywriting, and heterotopia in the sky , Artnodes: No. 34: (July 2024). NODE 34. Materiology and variantology: invitation to dialogue (guest editors: Siegfried Zielinski & Daniel Irrgang)
- Rene G. Cepeda, Making a Manual: The Manual for the Curation and Display of Interactive New Media Art , Artnodes: No. 31: (January 2023). NODE 31. Possibles II (Editors: Pau Alsina & Andrés Burbano)
- Erkki Huhtamo, The Self-Driving Car: A Media Machine for Posthumans? , Artnodes: No. 26: (July 2021). NODE 26. AI, Arts & Design: Questioning Learning Machines (Guest Editors: A. Burbano & R. West)
- Victor Flores, The Metrics of Landscape. Stereo fieldwork by Francisco Afonso Chaves and other Portuguese Explorers , Artnodes: No. 21: (June 2018). NODE 21. Media Archaeology (Editors: Pau Alsina, Ana Rodríguez, Vanina Hofman)
You may also start an advanced similarity search for this article.